How to thread a Handi-rifle barrel? - Practical Machinist I just picked up an H R Handi-rifle in 357 on New Years My main reason for purchasing this was to shoot suppressed 38s through it I want to cut the barrel to 16 5" and thread it to 1 2-28, but I'm not sure how to do it since the lug on the barrel is to big to allow the barrel to center in the spindle bore (I have a 2" bore)
Gunsmithing | Hand cut rifling | Practical Machinist - Largest . . . This is after the barrel was hand forge welded into a rough tube,then hand bored and reamed with straight square reamers made from old square files The reamer is again expanded by using slips of paper sandwiched behind the cutting edge and a semi circular slip of wood You could buy the movie about hand making a rifle from Colonial Williamsburg
Gunsmithing | Barrel lapping | Practical Machinist - Largest . . . I spent an afternoon with Mark Chanlynn last summer learning how to lap a match grade rifle barrel To start with, he uses 220 grit (C), moves to 240 grit (B), and finishes with 280 grit (A) Clover compound The Clover compound is silicon carbide in a grease base You can make a barrel too smooth 800 grit is way too fine, let alone 1000
Rifle Re-Chambering Question - Practical Machinist So I built a reamer extension and reamed it by hand Used a thin brass washer on the reamer for a stop so as not to change the head space on the rim If your barrel up is in not a super precision target set up pushing it in by hand and let it follow the old reamed chamber may be an option 008 TIR is only 004 of center
You carn`t make barrels on a lathe! - Practical Machinist Thanks for sharing your southpaw rifle, it is always nice to finish a challenging project Your statement that gunsmiths would tell you that you cannot make a barrel on a lathe needs to be understood in context For a gunsmith earning a living you cannot make a barrel in a lathe with enough economy and consistency to satisfy paying customers
Gunsmithing | Barrel chambering-My way - Practical Machinist The reamer is then held against a dead center in the tail stock by hand using a T handle and the steady rest posts are backed off about 6 to 12 thousandths each In this method the barrel is free to float around and the reamer is allowed to float on the rear center and follow the inside of the barrel
Torque required to install a barrel - Practical Machinist George's method is similar to mine I screw the action onto the barrel hand tight with a small snap at the end Back it off and repeat 4-5 times Then snap it a little harder the last time It then takes a medium tap with a mallet to loosen Anything tighter is not needed unless the barrel weighs more than 5 pounds and is longer than 26 inches
Gunsmithing | turning a barrel on centers | Practical Machinist . . . But it depends on how much material you remove, the thinner you go the bigger the problem, so a bull barrel will be less affected than a thin hunting barrel One area where this can produce problems is when threading the muzzle, since it can cause a slight "trumpet flare", so a common advice is to use the largest diameter and as fine threads as
Help with hand reaming chambers - Practical Machinist Usual rule of thumb with reamers is no more than 0 015" for removal Plus if not properly supported doing it by hand creates problems by not being able to apply the necessary torque perpendicular to the hole your trying to ream Reaming by hand really should only be done with an adjustable reamer with very small diameter changes
Gunsmithing | Reaming a . 22 Chamber - Practical Machinist Care must be exercised with respect to feeding rimfire reamers because they remove very little metal compared to a bottlenecked rifle chamber reamer It is real easy to push the reamer in further than desired Search here and the web for more discussions on rimfire barrel work There are differences between rimfire and centerfire