BD atc guide vs Reverso - Mountain Project As mentioned up thread, if using a Reverso Guide GiGi, rope age and diameter are critical, as is using a nice round-stock carabiner Josh's method at belay transitions is ideal, and is my preferred technique, with the seconds being belayed on a GiGi and the leader being belayed with another device (GriGri, Reverso, etc )
It probably doesnt matter but. . . ATC alpine vs. reverso? The Reverso does handle smaller ropes better than the full ATC (and vice versa for the ATC handling bigger ropes better), but I would still be concerned that when using a single strand of a super skinny rope in guide mode, the Reverso's tubes would be large enough to allow the load and belay strands to capsize and defeat the autoblock
Favorite ATC-style device with top belay guide mode and steel wear points? After burning through my latest Petzl Reverso shockingly fast I'm thinking about an ATC with steel wear points for a bit more longevity, smoothness on lower rappel and eco-friendliness I know it's a minor change and won't save the world but I thought it was a little silly how consumable some ATCs are
favorite multi-pitch belay device? - Mountain Project The reverso takes more effort to belay in auto block mode on thicker, stiffer less supple ropes The guide takes a little more effort to control speed on rappel (at least for me @ 200lbs), but this is easily remedied buy adding a second biner on rappels
Am I gunna die? Wear and tear on ATC - Mountain Project Because that reverso literally looks like it's never had a rope run through it I can't imagine that thing has belayed more than 5 pitches in its entire life The anodization inside the tubes and on the friction teeth is utterly untouched immaculate
Gear Review: Petzl MICRO TRAXION - Mountain Project NateB wrote: However, if the rope passes to the outside of my legs while doing whatever climbing maneuver, two things can happen - 1) The locking lever can be held open by pressing against my legs, my pants, my harness, whatever and 2) the rope will have more twist and bind to it while passing through the device, which in turn can open the cam to its maximum
Giga Jul vs Mega Jul - Mountain Project Comparitively, the Petzl Reverso 4 (and newer version) wear out pretty fast and much faster than the standard BD ATC guide To Noel's point, basic round stock carabiners are pretty cheap and a wear item (i e the Metolius round stock locker or simple BD Rocklock) if you are doing lots of lowering or raps on any tube device