Canterbury knife (was Osmund knife) - Show and Tell - Bladesmiths . . . It's made it waterproof using a goop recipe recommended to me (beeswax boiled lineseed oil gum turpentine) I happened to already have those ingredients It has quite a potent smell It didn't change the appearance of the leather or the carvings, unlike an earlier test soaking leather in wax Making sheaths is fun
Recommendations for minimising decarb - Bladesmiths Forum Board I want to harden some small things with a lot of surface detail Probably made from W2 Can you guess what I'm thinking of? I guess that avoiding decarb would be greated challenge to keeping the surface detail hard? I have some of that grey goop you paint on before austenising to protect against
Quench Tank Ideas - Hot Work - Bladesmiths Forum Board You do not want to quench the handle tangs, so an edge quench in the goop with the handle tangs hanging down might work IF you use a steel that hardens well in goop, which limits you to an alloy slow quench steel like 5160 or O-1
AISI 1084 carbon steel - Bladesmiths Forum Board I quench almost everything in a 10 year old batch of Goddard's Goop, which is an even mix of transmission fluid, lard, and paraffin wax Sets up solid at room temperature, and I usually melt some down with a scrap bar, a trough or all of it depending on the piece, which gives me a nice hot oil bath for my blades
Cutlers resin - Fit and Finish - Bladesmiths Forum Board If you get a good goop in the inside, it will never come off Apparently they had glue like that in the Bronze age It can get wet, but if you let it soak, it will come apart The Japanese use it for various sword parts (gluing on the kurikata and kojiri, sometimes also gluing on the fuchi and kashira) The Japanese call it nikawa
Issues forge welding - Hot Work - Bladesmiths Forum Board Are you using flux? Is the smoke goop from the MIG welder getting in between the layers? Finally, how hard are you hitting it to set the weld? If you're using flux and smacking it really hard to get the flux out, you may be blowing the weld apart on impact Gentle taps until you know it's solid
Edge Quench or Soft-back Draw? - Bladesmiths Forum Board What I have use to edge quench is a roasting pan filled with my version of Goddard's Goop Its a mixture of pan drippings, vegetable oil, old candles, and a little parrafin
problems quenching into hot canola oil (400F). This weekend, I finally hardened a messer blade of 1075 I've been working on I have a temperature controlled heat-treating furnace (a home-made vertical 2 burner furnace with a baffle -- it heats quite evenly), and I soaked at 1475F for 3 minutes, then quenched horizontally into 400F canola oil